Departure from Murchison Crossing

"It's important that you keep together, guys.  It's a big river.  Access is not very good.  Stay in sight of one another!"

Tally Ho!

The boat crews departed at 0645.  Single file with Mike and Mark in the lead, Greg and Brent bringing up the rear.  Barndon and Barden claimed that they "would only be seen in a glass boat because "tarts" race rubber boats".

The first hour was spent adjusting the load each boat was carrying in an attempt to even out the relative speeds.

Greg's motor had a cracked head gasket that took some to diagnose.

Scott reckoned that the increase in water level from 1994 made for a lot easier trip.  The expected hot weather didn't eventuate - it was overcast and cool.  Adrian was wishing he had worn his full length wetsuit!
 

"The most important thing is to stick together, guys"

Typical of the beautiful river red gums that line the banks of the Murchison River.
 

  ULW* I drove The Bus.  Dr E^# insisted ìthat the previous traversing (on the way in) had caused undue distress to the track and it would not tolerate too many more vehiclesî.  Therefore, The Bus was to head out to the Mullewa Road ahead of the 4WD.  Not having driven The Bus, or any vehicle for that matter, through water, I thought a ìjolly good run upî was in order (the only reason he was the Expedition was because of his supposed driving ability - Ed).  Try 3rd gear I said to myself!  So 3rd it was and as I hit the puddle it turned into a bloody ocean.

I looked into the rear view mirrors to see where the 4WD was but my vision was obscured by waves of water coming from the wheels of The Bus.  They blanked out any vision, left or right.  I then noticed that the door was still open!  At the same time The Bus slowed.  Third wasnít the gear to be in.  I was in jeans and flannelette shirt - that wasnít the gear to be in either - a wetsuit would have been more suitable.

ìPretty much what Iím wearing right now.î was my reply.

ìUse 2nd gear, you (deleted expletive) idiot!î was the tactful advice from Dr E.

* = Upon leaving Wooleen
# = Kim Epton - it's a long story.  See the movie "Spies Like Us"
 

The Shire of Murchison -
the only Shire in Australia with no town.
Read more

Greg fixing carby

A bit of rope was used to secure the motor more securely and they took off again.  In their private ìtally of stuffupsî the score was Barden 0 Barndon 1.  To relieve the boredom of wide open flooded river a ìgameî of leapfrog developed with the lead boat falling back to the rear and the second boat to the lead and so on.

Greg commented, ìDown the river we went with the whole group joking and laughing all the way".

Where are we? Where are the other boats?

The boat crews had been following a line of trees for some time.  The river was fairly well defined.  Then ti trees appeared.  The boats entered one after another, seeking a channel.  The great expanse of the river meant that there were several courses from which to choose - most of which ended up in dense scrub. 

The best option when there is no obvious route is to follow the flow.  However, it is not always that easy.  This made for very slow going as crews checked the various routes and then regrouped to ascertain which went nowhere and who was onto a winner.

 They also needed to find the other boats but none were to be seen.  Looking across the ìlakeî they saw a boat pop through the trees.  Greg and Brent headed over to the new arrival - it was Mike.  A ìnone-too-pleasedî Mike. 

According to Brent he, ìmuttered something about it being an expedition and we should all stick together - (you arenít The Messiah, youíre just a naughty, naughty boy)î  [Good onya, Mike - Ed].  Greg blamed his co-driver for the navigational error - Barndon 1, Barden 1 in the all-important tally of stuff ups.

 Frustrations vented, it was time to get the show back on the road (river) and have some fun - there was a station to be found!

 Scott was with Cliff in the large "Expedition Duck" and they were having a difficult time keeping up with the others while also searching for the river proper, "We were getting further and further away from the well defined tree line we had been next to and following for most of the day.  I had visions of us finding our way down some minor off shoot and ending up in a lake miles from anywhere."

After linking up again the boat crews endeavoured to keep fairly close together from that point on.  This separation of crews is one of the main problems encountered in river expeditions.

More motor problems

Should the boat at the rear become disabled time is wasted in returning to the disabled craft (if it can be found in the thickets).  The crew of the disabled craft may solve the problem, continue downriver and miss the returning boat(s).

There are a number of scenarios that could be played out if boat crews allow themselves to get separated - none of them contributing to a safe and efficient expedition.  It is nothing new.

It was one of the major problems (if not the major problem) on the 1981 Murray River Expedition over 2225 kilometres.

On that Expedition two boat crews continued past the planned overnight stop, into the growing darkness and were stopped only a matter of a few hundred metres before a weir. 

Similar "tales of woe" could be told of the consequences of failing to keep together on every subsequent expedition.

Strangely enough there was little wildlife in this section.  The floodwaters had pushed the trees and shrubs into some amazing shapes and distortions.  Approaching Billabalong Station the river deepened and the red earth banks started to give way to long sections of cliff.  Goats and sheep started to appear.

Lunchbreak

The first checkpoint was Billabalong Station.  The boat crews found the station and Greg found a submerged fence. ìYouíre the deckie, you jump over and untangle the propî, said Greg.  ìYou should have kicked the motor to get over the fenceî, replied Brent.  The score in their competition was Barndon 2, Barden 1.
 

Always leave gates as you find them

The psychological importance of a successful rendezvous at the first checkpoint cannot be underestimated.  Thereís a lot of river out there and not many roads to civilisation!  Unfortunately there was no rendezvous.

The boat crews found the Station.

The support crew found the Station. 

Their timing did not coincide.

Arrival at Ballinyoo

The boat crews made good time, however, to Kim and Tony in the 4WD they seemed to be well overdue.  Kim and Tony had gone to Billabalong Station, spoken to the owners and headed to the river.

After waiting a considerable time without seeing the boat crews they headed to Ballinyoo Bridge where Kim Thorson was waiting with The Bus. 

Tony at Balliyoo Bridge
 

While waiting for the boats to arrive I started a small fire and boiled the billy, recalled Kim.  I remembered that Buddha broke the pull start on the generator (Memo to Buddha from the Ed - ìI told you so!î) and also remembered that I said I would have it fixed before he met up with The Bus again.  From the moment I picked up the tools to when it was fixed took all of six minutes and not only was it repaired but also in a better position to pull start it compared to its previous elevated position. MR FIXIT I AM!!!    What else can I fix?! (He was positively salivating with self aggrandisement by this stage - Ed).

During my coffee break I noticed the water tank atop The Bus was leaking.  Another job for MR FIXIT!

ìAnother six minute jobî, I guessed, ìMaybe 10 at the outsideî.  Not only did it take longer than 10 minutes but after using three melted lead sinkers, Velvet soap, all the gas in Scottís burner thingy, and a quarter tube of silicon the bastard still leaked.  Oh well, back to the campfire and coffee.

On the water the boat crews were still making good time.  The meandering river course took a lot longer to cover than expected.  It was obviously a lot further than the distance Kim Epton had measured on the map.  However, on the land, the support crew was not to know this.  After waiting another considerable time at Ballinyoo Tony and Kim headed back to the Twin Peaks crossing.
 

Floodwaters prevented them approaching closer than 300m to the river.  There seemed little point in waiting there so they headed downriver to Billabalong again.

Success.  The boat crews had been there and had left a piece of red tape to indicate their arrival.  Tony and Kim sped off to Ballinyoo Bridge for the second time.  It was still another hour before the boats came into sight.  The calculated distance between the Start and the bridge was 82 kilometres.  When the boat crews finally arrived at Ballinyoo Bridge it was calculated that, after allowing for time lost repairing Gregís carby, the actual distance was about 120 kilometres.

 The crews had difficulty getting their boats under the bridge.  In the first Murchison River Expedition in 1994 there was at least two metres clearance.

The calculated river distance to Yallalong Station was 32 kilometres.  After the morningís experience, the actual distance was anybodyís guess.  After discussion it was agreed that there was plenty of time to make it before dark. 
 

Storm clouds are gathering prior to the departure from Ballinyoo.

Adrian was able to run hot water from his motor "telltale" over his legs.  He was able to adjust the temperature of the water by raising or lowering the height of the motor (higher is hotter).  The others were not so lucky.

 By this time anything moveable had been transferred into Greg and Brentís rig to slow them down (they had previously been zipping all over the river creating mayhem and generally having a good time).  They had the radio, ration packs, spare gearboxes and whatever else was seen to be slowing the other boats.

Rain, Rain, Glorious Rain

 It was doubtful if Yallalong could be reached by road on the northern side of the river.  In reality this was of little relevance because the height of the water meant that the vehicles would not be able to cross the river at Yallalong.

 The only option was for the support crew to head south to Pinegrove Station and the turn north on the Pinegrove-Yallalong-Coolcalalaya Road - a distance of about 85 kilometres.

Kim Thorson recalls - After the boats left it was time to head to the next ìboats/bus placeî.  The 4WD lead the way.  The road looked like it had just been graded.  Then it RAINED.

The best view of Cliff and Scott
 

Greg and Brent

500m ahead, the 4WD stopped, both doors flew open, the crew exited, turned the hubs, dived back into the vehicle and then took off into the distance, fishtailing all across the road.

Dr Eís last words to me were, ìDonít get bogged!î  The rain had turned the top 100mm of the road into mud and The Bus was slowing down.  I gently glud (Iíll leave the reader to ponder the validity of this neologism - Ed) the gear stick into 3rd and floored the bastard - which didnít really change things.  The Bus was sliding from one side of the road to the other with the wheels spinning all the way. 

Every time I tried 4th gear it went sliding around like an 8 tonne ìepileptic jellyfish in a bucket of snotî.  This continued for at least three kilometres. (At least he was having an interesting ride - Ed).

On towards Yallalong.  Four wheel drifts in an 8 tonne bus is not a good feeling but after not taking out any fence posts or livestock for twenty kilometres it is easy.  We reached the point were it was decided that The Bus could go no further (much to my relief).  The crew in the 4WD went ahead to find the boats.

 On the water everyone was in "cruise mode".  Scott spotted a baby goat on a cliff face.  "We went over to get it as it had nowhere to go.  Nobody saw us as I picked it off the ledge and hid it under the gunwale.  We signalled to Brent and Greg to slow down as if we had a problem.  Brent was driving.  Greg was lying on his back with that shit-eating grin of his and just cocked up his head to see what was going on.  I launched the kid goat at him.  The grin was replaced by a look of terror and the wet bundle of goat landed fair on his chest."

Greg kept the goat until Yallalong where it was released unharmed.

A short time later the boat crews came across a dozen sheep stranded on a river island.  From the state of the sheep it appeared as if they had been there for some time.

They were rounded up and shepherded (half dragged) to the bank.  Some were too weak to stand after their ordeal.  Eventually they gathered strength and wandered off.

.
Greg spent a lot of time climbing trees trying to ascertain the best route.
 

Greg and his pet goat.

 Mud, Mud, Greasy Mud

On the road from Pinegrove to Yallalong it was decided not to risk taking The Bus any further.  The track was like a river.  The crew in the 4WD continued towards the river.  Water spread out for as far as the eye could see.  Tony and Kim decided that  ìwe have to get out of hereî.  The amount of rain falling could isolate the area for days. 

They considered that the condition of the track would make it extremely difficult if not impossible for the 4WD to make two trips to pick up the four boats and crews - they would have to be transported in one go.The vehicle was slithering all over the track.  With each long pool of water the doubt over getting through to the river increased. 

The slippery surface was made worse when a herd of horses shot out from the scrub onto the track and persisted in running along in front of the 4WD, cutting up the track more. They refused to deviate from the track and Tony could do nothing but keep the vehicle moving in their wake.

The boat crews arrived at Yallalong Crossing, the pre-planned refuelling point, around 3pm although they were unsure if it was indeed Yallalong.

Brian and Adrian went off in the direction of the sound of a generator operating.  There were fears that floodwaters would prevent Tony and Kim in the 4WD from reaching the re-fuelling point.  Scott recalled "the idea of making ourselves more comfortable took over but the trees were no shelter and we couldn't get the matches to light so we could start a 'Whitney'.  We were still not sure if this was the right place.  Bocky and Brian had been gone for about half an hour. 

Then we heard a stampede of horses coming our way followed by Kim and Tony".

Kim explained the necessity of getting out fast.  Adrian and Brian returned as the boats were being loaded onto the 4WD.  Vaughan Barndon, of Yallalong, offered hospitality should it be required.

Mike "Shepherd" Lenz

Contrary to appearances Brian is not "kick starting"
 this woolly jumper.It flocked off with the others.
 

Four boats on the roof rack, three persons in the front, four in the back and three in the tray with the four motors, fuel tanks and other assorted gear made for a fairly full load.

The trip back to where The Bus had propped was "interesting" although with the extra weight there was no chance that the vehicle would became stuck - and if it did there were plenty of pushers. 

Scott reckoned, "Loading the 4WD was easy compared to listening to Tony tell us 300 times that we had no idea how muddy and slippery the track was only to find this 'track from hell' resembled a four lane bitumen highway all the way back to The Bus (was not - Ed). On getting back to The Bus we had to listen to more crap from the Phantom on 'the bus trip from hell' ".

The Phantom reported that he had ìset about gathering wood for a fire.  I built a pile 3m by 2mî (who cleared the acre of bush this time - Ed).  The next morning the coals alone were still 400mm high and glowing bright.
 

Water, Water Everywhere

There was water, water everywhere (and plenty to drink if one was so inclined).  After splashing through twenty kilometres of mud and water The Bus was spotted, parked off to the right of the track.  Kim Thorson had started a fire - greatly appreciated by the chilled boaters.

Kim Epton, Kim Thorson and Tony checked the ground between where The Bus was parked and where it was intended to park it off the track.  The ground was declared firm enough.  Kim Epton started The Bus and, with great trepidation, drove it to the selected spot.  Their fears were unfounded.  The tyres pressed into the soil no more than 20mm, except when a severe turn was made to ensure correct alignment.

Mike arranged the loading of the boats directly from the 4WD onto the roofrack of The Bus while others established a comfortable camp.  Kim Thorson, ably assisted by Adrian prepared dinner. 
 

The Phantom's phantastic phire.

Thanks to the piscatorial skills of one Adrian Bock, eleven power dinghy expeditioners sat down to a magnificent meal - fillet of Western Australian Dhufish (the most superb fish in the world)- brilliantly prepared by Kim Thorson, and presented in the somewhat incongruous flooded semi arid setting.
 

Lies and Laughs

 According to Greg, "The food was excellent, the beer hit the spot and the conversation flowed".

The evening was spent sitting around the campfire telling lies.  Most crashed early - buggered. 

It was planned to proceed to Kalbarri via the Mullewa Road south.  It was expected that the journey would be hazardous.  Contingency plans were made if The Bus became stuck. 

It was considered that the Coolcalalaya track would be impassable. Knowledge gained from the 1994 Expedition meant the only way out was south through Mullewa, and then west towards Northampton - a "long cut" to Kalbarri.
 

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