Refuel at Norseman

The early departure from the bush camp at Theatre Rock allowed us to refuel in Norseman and be heading eastward on the Eyre Highway by 8.25 a.m.

Bypassing Balladonia Roadhouse we turned off the highway into Afghan Rock for a break.

90 Mile Straight and the Eyre Highway

Scott had photographs of himself taken (wearing only jocks and boots) in front of the 90 Mile Straight sign. To protect the sensibilities of the reader, none of these pics are reproduced here!

The section of Eyre Highway between Balladonia and Caiguna is the longest straight stretch of road in Australia, and second longest in the world. The road stretches for 145.6 kilometres (90.5 miles) without a deviation and is signposted as the ’90 Mile Straight’. Although it lacks interesting features and grand scenery its iconic status makes it one of the Great Drives of Western Australia.

Caiguna Blowholes

The Caiguna Blowhole is just to the west of the Caiguna Roadhouse and well worth a visit.

We shared our lunch with crows (Australian ravens) and the ‘rats of the sky’, silver gulls, in the picnic area of the Caiguna roadhouse.

Cocklebiddy Cave

Forty kilometres further east the convoy turned off Eyre Highway north into Nuytsland Nature Reserve to find an alternative way to Cocklebiddy Cave. The first deviation was a sinecure – the track turned 90 degrees to the east. With a a fence in front of me there was no option.

Beyond that, the tracks were extremely ill defined – it was a test of navigation. The track heading south east to the cave was very indistinct. After a minute or so of casting around I located it and we were away again. After only 100 metres or so the track became clearly defined again. On arrival at the cave we were disappointed to find that it had been closed by the Department of Parks and Wildlife.

Madura Pass

We returned to Eyre Highway and continued east. At the bottom of the Hampton Tablelands at Madura Pass we turned off the highway and headed uphill on the Loonganna Road, intending to take what is erroneously termed ‘the Old Coach Road’ to Moodini Pass but a locked gate across the track prevented access. Weed control was the reason stated on the gate but more than likely it was feral tourist control. Half way down the hill on the return to the highway the sidewall of Scott’s Jimny’s left rear tyre split. Everyone pitched in and it was changed in a few minutes. It was getting dark and overcast, and little bit of rain fell.

Moodini Bluff Overnight Camp

After 30 minutes of unsuccessful attempts to find a campsite we eventually turned in the Moodini Bluff 24 hr Stopping Place. It was pretty full but eventually we found a space large enough for our group. Scott and Kerry went off in Kerry’s ute and got wood. Another pleasant night around campfire.

Eucla Telegraph Station Ruins

Next morning, after refuelling at Eucla ($1.48/litre), we visited the old Telegraph Station. The inexorable creep of the sand dunes seems to have slowed.

Coming into Border Village John, Kerry, Scott and I got breath tested. Dan and Ken got drug tested. My information is that Police are selective about who they choose for drug tests!

Trapped Animal

To the north of the quarantine checkpoint is an interesting find, largely unknown. A hole in the limestone karst with an opening just under a metre in diameter has a ledge about 700 mm from the top of the hole. An animal has jumped or fallen into the hole, landed on the ledge and been unable to extricate itself, eventually dying.

Wilson Bluff

From this point Ken and Estela, and John and Leslie continued east along Eyre Highway for 10 kilometres to wait at a parking bay while Kerry, Dan, Scott and I drove to Wilson Bluff.

Wilson Bluff marks the start of the Bunda Cliffs.

I had been hearing a ‘tinkling’ noise for some time and it was eventually diagnosed as a loose shockie strut, left front. We secured it temporarily with tape and a suitable nut found in Scott’s container of spares.

We headed back to the Eyre Highway, rv’d with John/Leslie and Ken/Estela, and then continued the eastward push. Not long after after we spotted a wrecked van and secured a replacement washer for the strut on the Rodeo. Kerry searched the wreck for a replacement radio antenna. No luck. No luck among the wrecks at Koonalda. Nor in any of the hundreds of wrecks along the Great Central Road. Kerry was still looking at Laverton.

Koonalda

Scott highly recommended a visit to Koonalda, an abandoned pastoral station homestead 15 kilometres to the north of the Eyre Highway.

Along the way we stopped at a sink hole or doline. Large dolines often have passages leading to caves. Dolines are formed by the collapse of the roof of caves. They can be from a few metres to 200 metres wide, and from a small depression to as deep as 40 metres.

We also took time out to greet the local wildlife. While having lunch at Koonalda we wandered around among the old car wrecks, machinery, buildings and artefacts.

Back on the Eyre Highway

On the way back to the bitumen we drove a section of the old Eyre Highway. While taking a break at Nullarbor roadhouse (diesel $1.69/L) Scott organised a replacement tyre to be ready on our arrival at Ceduna.

Nundroo

We pulled into Nundroo Caravan Park just before dark – $4/head and lukewarm showers.

Scott and Kerry had collected wood on the way in and we had a comfortable night around the campfire.

In the morning Scott left early to arrange fitting/collection of tyre for his Jimny at Ceduna.

Ceduna

On arrival at Ceduna the group dispersed to refuel, buy food, and get permits for Googs Track. We regrouped at the oyster shop opposite the BP servo before starting on Googs Track.

 

Return to Hyden to Norseman

Go to Googs Track

 

 

© Kim Epton 2016-2026
1139 words, 23 photographs, three images.

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