To Kalgoorlie

Day 1 – Saturday 17 May 2025

The rationale for starting this Eastern Goldfields Mining History Tour at Broomehill was that this is where the Holland Track started. This bush track, completed only weeks after Paddy Hannan’s discovery at Kalgoorlie, enabled thousands of hopefuls (many of whom where ‘t’othersiders’) to access the goldfields quicker, easier and cheaper than by travelling to Perth from Albany by coach (or to Fremantle by ship) and then continuing to Southern Cross, perhaps by train or coach, and eventually Kalgoorlie. Read a comprehensive history and description of the Holland Track on the Wells and Tracks website.

The Tour departed Broomehill and travelled through farming country to Nyabing  and then to Holland Rocks for lunch.

Holland Rocks

Lunch at Holland Rock.

Silver Wattle Hill Nature Reserve

Our convoy visited Silver Wattle Hill Nature Reserve for a walk along a short section of now unused and nearly forgotten Holland Track.

Newdegate

Newdegate was an opportunity to refuel and enjoy the public silo art.

Lake Biddy

The small hamlet of Lake Biddy has been abandoned.

Dragon Rocks Reserve

The Tour passed through the Dragon Rocks Reserve. The name given to these rocks in 1919 by Surveyor H. Barclay is an acknowledgement of the abundance of Dragon Lizards in the vicinity.

Emu Rocks

The day was dragging on and it was clear we were going to be late into Hyden. Walking (rather than driving) into Emu Rocks exacerbated the situation.

The six kilometres of track north of Emu Rocks to the Hyden Norseman Road was considered to be too rough to traverse so we retraced our route southwards.

Not knowing the capabilities of the various drivers I made no comment although, as a result of a smash where my vehicle was T-boned on the Hyden-Norseman Road, I had towed the severely-damaged, offending vehicle over those same six kilometres into Emu Rocks with my severely-damaged (ultimately written off) vehicle without issue in 2021. We worked late into the night repairing the vehicles so they were in a condition where they could be driven back out to Hyden Norseman Road and then to Perth.

Perception is reality.

Hyden

Unable to gain entry to Wave Rock Caravan Park because of the late arrival hour Tassy and I camped with Rod at Wave Rock Short Stay. Thanks Rod.

Day 1 of the Tour finished at Hyden.

Additional photographs of Day 1.

Day 2 – Sunday 18 May

Hyden to The Humps

The Humps and Mulkas Cave are 19 kilometres north of Hyden.

The water collected at the humps from harvest walls was an important water supply for Hyden. After completion of the Harris River Dam scheme that supplies water to the Great Southern region it is now only a backup (but important) water source.

Mulkas Cave

Mulkas Cave has the largest collection of aboriginal paintings in the South West of Western Australia, clear indication of its significance. It was an important link between desert people and coastal people.

Hyden Norseman Road

We headed east out of Hyden on the Hyden Norseman Road. In the dark days of WWII when the now Eyre Highway was constructed without fanfare it was only political pressure that caused the transcontinental route to be diverted to Coolgardie rather than continue to Hyden.

With the current program of sealing the Hyden Norseman Road it will be interesting to see the change in traffic volume west from Norseman. Route 94 (Great Eastern Highway) is in disgusting condition unworthy of such an important link/artery and there is no doubt that light vehicles will choose the shorter and better route through Hyden after it is sealed. It is problematic whether heavier vehicles will be given permits to traverse this upgraded route.

The Breakaways

The Breakaways are a fantastic site for a stopover or just a visit.

McDermid Rock

After lunch at The Breakaways we continued the push along Hyden-Norseman Road to McDermid Rock.

The climb to the top of McDermid Rock is reasonably easy.

Our convoy turned north-east onto Victoria Rock Road.

As the Tour was nominally following the Holland Track it was appropriate to stop at its terminus with Victoria Rock Road.

Gnarlbine Rock

The soaks at Gnarlbine Rock were extremely important for travelers to the Goldfields until C.Y. O’Connor’s pipeline was completed in 1903.

The Tour continued north through the Kangaroo Hills, into Coolgardie and then Kalgoorlie-Boulder.

Day 2 of the Tour finished at Kalgoorlie.

Additional photographs of Day 2.

 

Go to Around Kalgoorlie.

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© Kim Epton 2025
1070 words, 28 photographs, two images.

Photographs
Richard Carver
Tassy Epton
Rod Dally
Kim Epton

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