The bats at Phu Pha Man live in the Khang Khao Cave in the eponymously named National Park – which in turn is named after the Phu Pha Man mountains – a range synonymous with steep karst cliffs.

Tham Khang Khao (the cave in which the bats live) is at the southern end of Phu Pha Man mountain range and is easily accessible from Highway.12 (AH 16).

It is 110 kilometres west of Khon Kaen and 450 kilometres north-east of Bangkok.

Phu Pha Mountains

Phu Pha Man means ‘curtain’ in Thai.

Tham Khang Khao is located on the southern-facing limestone cliff of the Phu Pha Mountains.

Tham is the word for cave.

Khao is the word for mountain in central and southern Thailand whereas Phu is used in Isaan (and Laos) (cf Phu Phan, Phu Sa Dok Bua), and Doi in northern Thailand (Doi Inthanon, Doi Suthep). Although probably pleonastic the word ‘mountain’ is commonly used in co-location with ‘khao’.

The Khong Khao Cave in the Phu Pha Mountains is home to a large bat population. Whether the number of Chiroptera is ‘around the million mark’ is difficult to pin down.

Karst Mountains

Sheer grey vertical karst cliff faces are a spectacular sight and, if staying on the eastern side of the mountains, are an amazing morning view.

The spectacular karst upliftings are reminiscent of that found in southern Thailand.

Remarkable Natural Phenomenon

The exodus of the bats from Tham Khong Khao is a remarkable natural phenomenon.

Every evening at sunset, bats emerge from the cave in search of food. The liquid-like stream of flying mammals bursting forth from the cave is overwhelmingly comprised of the Great Roundleaf bats. Wrinkle-lipped Free-tailed bats. Roundleaf bats have also been recorded.

Viewing the Exodus

Ignore uninformed comments that there are no guides (you don’t need one) or that the ‘viewpoint” is not adequately described/indicated (get to to the general area of Khong Khao Cave and the bats will fly over your head).

Flight of the Bats

The bats’ role in pollination and insect control is important in maintaining the ecological balance of the area.

Information is limited on where the bats go when they exit the cave. Don’t believe the crap spouted by AI that they leave their rookeries for only 20 minutes or so and/or travel 10 kilometres or so – it is patently incorrect and is derived from bat activity in the US.

It takes about 20 minutes for the spectacular exit to unfold.

The bats return around dawn the next morning. Punters have a chance to see the bats re-enter the cave should they have missed the departure at dusk the previous evening.

Resorts and Restaurants

There are resorts, markets, restaurants and coffee shops located south of the mountain range (where the bats exit) but many more are located ‘around the corner’ (the eastern side of the mountain). Go to one of these after the exit of the bats finishes.

The Man Mok restaurant on the eastern side of the mountain bluff has an excellent fire show.

Their system of ordering everything through their App is painful. The App is yet to work out how to order more serviettes or to reheat food. As with most Thai restaurants the order of delivery of the dishes is totally random and the time gap between dishes is frustratingly disjointed. Maybe they need a new App. Those criticisms aside, and providing the excellent fire show continues, this is the pick of dining locations at Phu Pha Man.

Be aware that weekend accommodation needs to be booked ahead of time and it attracts a premium.

Gallery of Images

Touring Thailand

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© Kim Epton 2026
692 words, five photographs, one image.

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