Itinerary for a 9-10 day, 3000 kilometre Road Trip from Khon Kaen in Isaan to northern Thailand peaking at Chaeng Saen and the Golden Triangle.

Khon Kaen

Head west out of Khon Kaen on Route12/AH16.

This Itinerary includes numerous references to Thailand’s well-thought-out Road Numbering System that makes navigating the regions easier. Go here if interested.

Non Muang Ancient Town

Non Muang on the outskirts of modern day Chum Phae was first inhabited around the 8th century BCE and evolved into a complex society during the Dvaravati period (7-11th century), before being abandoned around the 12th century. Interestingly, given its location and historicity, it is not connected to the Khmer Empire that we  investigate on Road Trips but rather being more associated with local ancient settlements. Just a little bit too far north-west!

South around the Phetchabun Mountains

We will divert off Route 12 south towards Phetchabun. This avoids the frenetic climb/duel with crazed drivers through the mountains on Route 12 – although, past Phetchabun, our route is through the southern heights of these mountains. This will be a good introduction to the excitement to be experienced on the roads of northern Thailand.

After having rounded the mountains, country roads will take us to Bang Mung for a spectacle of nature.

Ban Mung Bats

A million bats depart caves at Ban Mung around sunset. All going well we will just arrive before dusk to secure a vantage point from which to view this spectacle.

Dinner is at a lakeside restaurant after viewing the departure of the bats. Overnight at Ban Mung.

The day’s journey totals 360 km, a big but comfortable drive in Thailand.

Phitsanoluk

Phitsanoluk is one of Thailand’s oldest cities. We’ll have a brief look around this regional centre before heading to the highlight of the day – the amazing Sukothai Historical Park.

Sukothai Historical Park

One of the best Historical Parks in Thailand, Sukothai (an ancient capital of Siam) boasts 193 ruins over a 70 square square kilometre area. No way are we going to see anywhere near all of this Historical Park! Free trams (hop on and off) provide transport through the Park.

Overnight in Sukothai, allowing plenty of time to explore the rich history of the city and slow the pace of the Tour.

The Road Trip covers 130 kilometres – about equivalent to double in Australia – which is not a big distance. But, as described above, there is lots to see and do at Sukothai.

Lampang

From Sukothai we head north to Lampang, a major city in the Lanna kingdom (13-18th century). It was largely overshadowed by Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai.

Time to get off Route 1/AH2 – Phahonyothin Road, one of the four primary highways in Thailand that run out of Bangkok. Route 1 continues to the Myanmar border at Tachilek but we will leave it at Lampang, heading into less populated regions on the way to Chiang Rai.

Our drive takes us up and over the Khun Tan Range – an introduction to the convoluted and tortuous roads to be experienced over coming days.

After descending from the mountains we’ll stop at a series of hot springs conveniently located at Mae Khachan, close to our direction of travel – and our overnight stop.

White Temple

We should arrive at the world famous Wat Rong Khun (White Temple) mid morning.

Though not as large or as well-known as the world-famous Taj Mahal, the White Temple outshines that icon for technical beauty. Additional structures built after the main edifice was finished are giving the site the character of a theme park – but fortunately the exquisite beauty of the central temple has not been diminished.  Wear sunglasses.

The remainder of the day is free to tour other attractions of Chiang Rai – the Black House, the Blue Temple. The tour could become a kaleidoscope of colour, however, we will resist that and perhaps visit the famous Singha Park Tea Plantation, and – if time permits – other attractions within Chiang Rai itself.

Dinner with Woody and friend at Chiang Rai. Overnight at Chiang Rai.

Golden Triangle

Day 5 of our route north is to Chiang Saen and the infamous Golden Triangle – now largely diminished from its former notoriety. However, on the opposite bank of the mighty Mekong River is the Laotian ‘Sin City’ – the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone, created in 2007 by the Lao government together with the Chinese company Kings Romans Group to ‘generate economic development’.

It quickly gained a reputation of being a Chinese enclave rife with illegal activities such as human trafficking/slavery, child prostitution, drug trafficking and wildlife trafficking.

Interesting to look at though.

Skywalk

A little-known Skywalk Viewpoint overlooking the Mekong River just out of Chiang Saen is our first stop before heading to the mountain country.

Route 1148

The Northern Thailand Road Trip continues south-east, skirting the Doi Pha Mon mountain range until Thoeng at which point we start climbing to join the iconic Route 1148.

Beautiful Route 1148 is often acclaimed as the best motorcycle road in Thailand. Paradise for bikers – although this is not Paradise Highway (Route 1290). Route 1148 is known as Sky Road and considered to be one of Thailand’s Iconic Roads. 78 kilometres of twisting, turning, mountainous scenery.

Route 1097

Iconic Route 1097 also lays claim to the best motorcycle road in Thailand. Along with Route 1148, Route 1081 and Route 1257 it is the heart of Nan. The spectacular scenery and driving continues. The road straightens (relative term) on approach to Chiang Klang and AH13 – a major arterial highway through the mountain country.

Sea of Clouds

Eleven kilometres south we turn towards Doi Sakad for tomorrow’s early morning ‘Sea of Clouds” experience.

Overnight at a local resort on the mountain.

Pua

Back on the major highway (AH13) the Road Trip continues for a short distance south to the village of Pua.

Floating Highway

It is here that we start the ‘Floating Highway’ – a 140 km loop through the Luang Prabang Mountain Range. This large and notable mountain range extends north to Laos.  One of the main attractions on the loop include the famous Number 3 Viewpoint on Route 1081 out of Pua. The road forms the shape of the numeral 3.

The diversion to Baan Sapan, partway along the route is another ‘sea of clouds’ opportunity.

The curves, switchbacks and radical changes in elevation, along with numerous spectacular Viewpoints, continue on Route 1257 back to Pua, out of the mountains.

Nan

Route AH13 takes us south to Nan, Capital and Administration Centre of the Province.

Nan’s Ancient Wall is worth a visit.

Doi Samer Dao

We will pass through Wiang Sa on the way to Na Noi.where we will divert to Doi Samer Dao for another potential ‘sea of clouds’ experience – although timing may be against us.

Pak Nai Fishing Village

Leaving Doi Samer Dao we will return to Na No on Route 1026, have lunch and then head to Pak Nai. This settlement is on an upper arm of the Sirikit Dam Reservoir. Without the ferry Pak Nai would a dead end, requiring a 230 kilometre detour around the reservoir.

Ferry across Sirikit Dam Reservoir

An interesting 20 minute ferry ride over an upper arm of the Sirikit Dam Reservoir, leaving from Pak Nai. It is then a easy run to Nam Pat and a move out of the mountains for a while.

Nat Pam

Nat Pam is a small administrative centre in the north of Uttaradit Province. Depending on our Schedule this may be our overnight stop but Pa Daeng is preferred.

Bo Lek Nam Phi – Iron Ore to Sword – a Unique Village

There are few places in the world where one can buy an item manufactured in situ. And even fewer where the raw materials to make the object are mined and processed on site by the artisans making the item. Baan Bo Lek Nam Phi in Uttaradit is one of few such places – possibly the only one. Knives, swords, Buddha figures, and many other items are all created on site by local blacksmiths. In Bo Lek Nam Phi the role of miner, bloomery operator, blacksmith, swordsmith, cutler, and bladesmith is most often the same person.

The eastward journey back to Khon Kaen starts after leaving Bo Lek Nam Phi.

Pa Daeng

Small town known for its forests. As seen in the mountains over the past few days, the tree leaves turned red December to February,  giving Pa Daeng its name.

Overnight in this small town.

Nakhon Thai

Reserved forest areas cover 80% of Nakhon Thai district in Phitsanulok province. It is rural, remote and poor.

Dan Sai to Chiang Khan

This is real rural northern Thailand. The roads are good but not highways. We have opportunity to stop at three Viewpoints on the way to the Mekong River.

Chiang Khan Skywalk Overlooking Mekong River

Well organised, great views, iconic location.

Mekong River

We’ll follow this mighty river for the next 150 kilometres, most of it less than 30 metres from the water, to another Skywalk – the first overlooking the Mekong. It is from here that we head south – through rural Thailand to the huge and amazing Ubolratana Dam and Reservoir.

Ubolratana Dam

Our route takes us along the water’s edge, literally. If the water is ‘up’ the skirting road is underwater by 100-200mm. At the southern end of the reservoir we will divert to Nam Phong National Park where there is a magnificent lookout over the water.

King Cobra Village

The skill and daring of the villagers, and their familiarity with snake behaviour, is on display during their snake handling/snake taunting on-demand performance.

Khmer Ruins

On the journey to Khon Kaen we’ll visit some ancient Khmer ruins.

 

© Kim Epton 2025
1625 words, yy photographs, one images.

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