Touring the West and North of Thailand

A 10 day, 3000 kilometre Road Trip visiting highlights of the west, north and central north of Thailand.

The Thailand you won’t see on Trip Advisor or  ‘sell your soul’ travel sites.

Happenstance discoveries and interactions. Cultural surprises with welcoming people. And opportunities for an appreciation of place.

Unlike the advice in the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s ‘Top 10 Attractions around Xxxxx’ (seven of which will absolutely be temples) we do not visit religious sites unless they are ancient ruins more than 1000 years old.

This Itinerary includes numerous references to Thailand’s well-thought-out Road Numbering System that makes navigating the regions easier. Go here if interested.

Day 1 – 20 January 2026
Bangkok to Ban Pong Railway Station

The train journey from Bangkok’s KTW terminal to Ban Pong railway station takes about 1.5 hours. In line with Thailand’s fluid railway schedule nationwide the arrival time at Ban Pong is estimated to be sometime around 11.00 a.m. Or 10.30 a.m. Do it for the experience – a taxi journey would be of equivalent duration and way more more stressful.

Without being condescending – How to catch the train from Banggkok to Ban Pong.

Kanchanaburi

After our rendezvous at Ban Pong and transit to Kanchanaburi we’ll look around this important, historical riverside town.

Visit the 12 metre high, 150 metre long Skywalk Over the River Kwai.

Thai Burma Death Railway

After the fall of Singapore in February 1942 tens of thousands of captured Allied soldiers were held as Prisoners of War at Changi.

As the war continued, Japan used thousands of these PoWs from Singapore as forced labour to support its military campaigns in South East Asia.

PoWs were transported to Thailand and Burma in overcrowded trains and ships to build the Thai–Burma Death Railway.

Visit the Commonwealth War Cemetery and the adjacent Burma Railway Death Museum.

Lunch at the Bridge on the River Kwai floating restaurant.

Hellfire Pass

Travel to Hellfire Pass. Visit the santised, censored and redacted Visitor Centre. Eviscerated and emasculated by the the Australian government upon Thai request. Don’t want to upset Japanese tourists. Weary Dunlop would turn over in his grave.

Fortunately the museums in Kanchanaburi are brave enough to maintain the truth.

After the unedifying tour of the re-imagined Visitor Centre we will walk eerie Conyu Cutting.

Overnight in nearby Pung Waan Resort.

Day 2 – 21 January 2026
Transition from the west to the mountainous north

The transition from ‘Bridge on River Kwai Country’ to Northern Thailand and the magnificent mountains of the north – a  distance of 700+ kilometres – starts today.

U Thong Ancient City

Two hours into our drive north is U Thong Ancient City.

Our journey north continues through Suphan Buri and Nakon Sawan to Kamphaeng Phet.

Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park

Along with U Thong the World Heritage listed Kamphaeng Phet Historical Park breaks up the journey north. This huge, well preserved and easily accessible ancient ruin (Khmer period, 1000+ years old) covers more than 825 acres. We will visit the smaller of the two areas on arrival and the main area the next morning.

Visitation to and discussion of Angkoran buildings and other ancient structures and ruins in Thailand is, by necessity, about only those that are religious in nature – because non-religious buildings such as dwellings were constructed of wood and other perishable materials and so they have not survived the millenniums. Religious buildings were constructed of stone and as such they are the only structures still extant.

Day 3 – 22 January 2026
Kamphaeng Phet to Chiang Mai

Leaving KPHP we’ll travel to Lampang, a major city in the Lanna kingdom (13-18th century). It was largely overshadowed by Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai.

Chiang Mai was the ancient Lanna capital and today is Thailand’s second largest city. While the ancient wall of the city is a popular visitor destination it also creates annoying traffic congestion.

We’ll camp near Warorot Market – the best and most interesting market in Chiang Mai. Always a great restaurant nearby if the street food is not what you want.

Day 4 – 23 January 2026
To Chiang Rai

We’ll spend the morning in Chiang Mai before heading north to Chiang Rai, visiting hot springs on the way. Still transitioning north.

Day 5 – 24 January 2026
White Temple

Breakfast at one of the iconic destinations of the tour – the White Temple (Wat Khun Rung),  Chiang Rai. The only visit to a current day temple on the Itinerary.

Ban Pha Hee Mountain Village

Leaving Chiang Rai we’ll head to mountains in the north west, visiting Ban Pha Hee Mountain Village on the Myanmar border. Ban Pha Hee is the largest Arabica coffee growing village in Thailand. After our first taste of ‘mountain driving’ there will be time to pause for a coffee and take in the spectacular views.

Golden Triangle

The infamous corner of Myamar, Laos and Thailand is today (and for the past 30 years) more of a tourist attraction than a poppy growing, drug manufacturing region.

Ancient Chiang Saen

The Chiang Saen National Museum is only a short distance away from the Golden Triangle.

Ancient ruins are scattered throughout Chiang Saen – most within the city wall although there are some outside. The whole panoply of sites is intermixed with modern day houses, shops and workplaces. An interesting juxtaposition of the old and the new to say the least!

The network of ancient ruins at Chiang Saen is championed to be a World Heritage Site.

If there is time we’ll round out the day with a visit to the new Chiang Saen Skywalk that overlooks the mighty Mekong River. This is a ‘must see’ so it will be first on the agenda tomorrow if we can’t find time today. It is an experience of coordinated and cooperative local commerce. We could drive to the Skywalk but ‘the rules’ mean that we have to pile in to a local songthaew (literal meaning “two rows”) taxi/bus – for a fee. The name of the taxi/bus is derived from the two bench seats installed along either side of the covered ute bed.

At the close of the day our aim is to find accommodation and a restaurant at Chiang Saen with riverside views. This may increase our ‘average spend’ on accommodation!

Day 6 – 25 January 2026
Leaving Chiang Saen

While the infamous Golden Triangle has largely diminished from its former notoriety, on the opposite bank of the mighty Mekong River it is impossible not to notice the Laotian ‘Sin City’ – the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone, created in 2007 by the Lao government together with the Chinese company Kings Romans Group to ‘generate economic development’.

It quickly gained a reputation of being a Chinese enclave rife with illegal activities such as human trafficking/slavery, child prostitution, drug trafficking and wildlife trafficking.

Interesting to look at though.

Chiang Khong

The journey from Chiang Saen is alongside the Mekong River to Chiang Khong – an important border crossing point. Chiang Khong is the site of the Fourth Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge that replaced the former ferry service in 2013.

Here starts the journey through the mountains. The next few days is full of magnificent mountains, spectacular viewpoints, intriguing villages, fruit stops, surprise cultural happenings (corn shucking, and the like), and great driving.

South through the Luang Prabang Range (it extends north well into Laos). Route 1148 (the Sky Road) is often touted as the best ride/drive in Thailand. It takes us to AH13 – a major highway through the mountains.

Our aspirational overnight stop is at a mountain resort in Tha Wang Pha, however, that will depend on terrain, traffic and touristy stops.

Day 7 – 26 January 2026

The morning drive is east to the Floating Highway (Route 1081). We will do about about half of this iconic drive, including two iconic ‘number curves’.

The Zero Curve

This popular curve is also known as ‘I Love U’ curve.

Number 3 Curve

The Number 3 Curve is probably the most famous of the Number Shaped Curves.

Not long after Number 3 we leave the Floating Highway for iconic Route 1257 and complete a near full circle through Santi Suk on the way to Nan.

Nan

The city of Nan is the focal point of adventure travel (mainly motorcycle tours) in this region.

South of Nan we encounter the Sao Din (literally “Soil Pole”) Sand Pillars. Not quite The Pinnacles but worth a visit.

Pak Nai Fishing Village

Pak Nai Fishing Village is on an upper arm of the Sirikit Dam Reservoir. Without the ferry that crosses this upper arm Pak Nai would be a dead end, requiring a 230 kilometre detour around the reservoir.

Ferry across Sirikit Dam Reservoir

An interesting 12 minute ferry ride over an upper arm of the Sirikit Dam Reservoir, leaving from Pak Nai. with a pretty rudimentary ‘on’ and ‘off’ procedure for vehicles. It all adds to the experience!

It is then an easy run to Nam Pat and a move out of the mountains for a while.

Nam Pat

Nam Pat is a small administrative centre in the north of Uttaradit Province. Depending on our Schedule this may be our overnight stop but we will need to be flexible.

Day 8 – 27 January 2026
We Tackle Some More Mountain Country

The mountainous country continues after leaving Nam Pat. We’ll stop at the famous ‘Number 9’ a road bend so tight that, when seen from the adjacent Viewpoint, forms the shape of the numeral 9.

The community of Den Sai is an important regional focal point. We will divert a short distance south-east to an iconic Viewpoint and then return to Den Sai.

Our route takes us back towards the Mekong River. We’ll re-encounter this mighty river at its confluence with the Hueang River, a smaller tributary that forms the Thai Laos border for 90 kilometres of its length. The reasonably new Chiang Khan Skywalk and Viewpoint is at this confluence.

Leaving the Skywalk we will tour Chiang Khan, 20 kilometres to the east along the river. The riverside hotels are traditional wooden structures and help to give Chiang Khan an ‘olde worlde’ feel.

We may stay the night here (overnight parking is very difficult) although our preferred destination is Sangkhom, an excellent  90 minute drive north-east along Route 211 following the Mekong River. One could easily live off this road – bananas, mangos and numerous other fruit trees line the road.

Sangkhom

Time to blow the moths out of the wallet for a great riverside view from the bedroom and the same from the restaurant. The photograph below, from a previous trip, is the view from the bedroom. Great vista but ….

Pretty special outlook for a tariff of only $45. However, the general appearance of the accommodation left a lot be desired. Time to upspec!

Day 9 – 28 January 2026
Homeward Run

Another Skywalk

Just east of Sangkhom is another Skywalk overlooking the Mekong. Great view and an  appreciation of the international geography. It is from here that we head south through rural Thailand.

Ubolratana Dam

Our route takes us along the water’s edge, literally. If the water is ‘up’ the skirting road is underwater by 100-200mm. At the southern end of the reservoir we will divert to Nam Phong National Park where there is a magnificent lookout over the water.

We’ll aim to have lunch at a restaurant overlooking the expansive waters of Ubol Ratana Reservoir.

Khon Kaen

Arrive in the capital of Isaan and check into good hotel hotel 300 metres from our house in Khon Kaen.

Seafood BBQ

The Tao BBQ is a traditional Thai form of barbecuing – particularly favoured for seafood.

Seafood ‘to die for’ and plenty of pork, chicken and vegetables for the non-pescatarian – with ice cream to finish.  Who cares at $15/person.

Overnight in Khon Kaen.

Day 10 – 29 January 2026
Depart for Australia

How’s this for a ‘filler’ day!

Ku Kaew Ancient Ruins.

Look around Khon Kaen.

Lunch at Central Plaza.

Visit Khon Kaen Museum.

Dinner at the famous Ton Tann Markets.

To Airport

Time your departure from KKC to BKK to suit your preference.

Flights leave KKC regularly. See this timetable. The airlines suggest that you check in three hours before flight time. You are seasoned travellers and know this in BS. However, ….

Plan your departure from KKC as late as you dare and as early as you need to. It is no fun playing tourist in Bangkok dragging around your luggage. Equally you don’t want to miss your international flight if there is an issue with your domestic flight.

We suggest flying out of KKC in the 1800-2000 window.

 

© Kim Epton 2025
2207 words, 17 photographs, one image.

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